I'd heard the phrase bijin no yu — beauty water — my whole life without knowing what it actually meant. So I went looking for it, starting with Tokyo's black-water onsen and my home onsen in Yokohama.
A ryokan review of Hana to Hana in Yunishigawa Onsen, Tochigi — covering the alkaline hot springs, irori hearth dinner, sake tasting, and what makes this mountain retreat worth the trip.
A certified Onsen Sommelier's guide to using a Japanese hot spring properly — including the five bathing principles.