A day trip to Hakone with a friend, built around just two stops — bamboo charcoal soba at Akatsukian and a deep dive into Tenzan Onsen's two hot spring sources, from an Onsen Sommelier's perspective.
A small adults-only ryokan in Gora with 8 rooms, each with its own private outdoor bath. Here's what the onsen water is actually like — and why August in Hakone makes more sense than you'd expect.